The Allalinhorn isn’t exactly a famous name outside of climbing circles – I hadn’t heard of it before booking a trip to Saas Fee. It doesn’t have the looks of the Matterhorn or the legendary status of Mont Blanc, but what it does have is a reputation as one of the more “friendly” 4,000m peaks in the Alps. The Alps have over eighty of these so-called “4,000ers” and, while most require long treks to refuges, tricky ridges or a painfully early alarm clock, the Allalinhorn is a little more forgiving for us mortals. Thanks to Saas Fee’s lift infrastructure, two separate cable cars followed by the MetroAlpin (the highest underground funicular in the world), you can be standing on a glacier with crampons and an ice axe in hand within an hour. All this infrastructure makes it feel almost like cheating, but we weren’t complaining.

That convenience makes it popular, though. The first funicular is usually heaving with climbers. From our hotel in the valley, we’d already seen a winding line of people making their way up the glacier on the Saas Fee webcam. We ended up taking a later lift, partly by design, partly due to a lack of planning, and while this meant there were fewer people on the mountain, it also meant crossing snow bridges that were starting to soften under the late-morning sun.